Category: Kalmia Knits

A dishcloth and pot scrubber are two of the most useful and simple items to knit. These two items are very practical and used by almost every adult. I like to make sets of dishcloths and pot scrubbers that coordinate with each other. Together, they are good to sell as a set or to give as gifts.

Dishcloth Pattern Options

There are so many patterns for pot scrubbers and even more for dishcloths. Some create a simple cloth. Other patterns give a textured finish to the dishcloth. Still more patterns for dishcloths create designs, such as letters, animals or other objects. Personally, for a dishcloth, I prefer a simple cloth with a garter stitch border. It is soft, easy to remember the pattern and knits up rather quickly.

Dishcloth Yarn Options

There are so many options of yarn to use. Natural fibers work best for this project, especially 100% cotton. However, they are typically a little more expensive than acrylic. Some of my favorites to use for this include Lily Sugar ‘n Cream, Peaches and Cream and Bernat Handicrafter cotton. These tend to be more economical, come in a variety of colors, and create a more durable product. Besides purchasing online, I purchase most of my yarn in local stores. For instance, I buy Lily Sugar ‘n Cream, Super Size, at Joann. Additionally, Peaches and Cream is found at Wal-mart. Bernat Handicrafter cotton is more difficult to find. I used to purchase it in 608 yards (for variegated yarn) and 710 yards (solid colors). Now I can only find those skeins online, and in limited quantities. I find smaller skeins in some stores.

Whenever possible, I purchase the cone of Sugar ‘n Cream or Peaches and Cream. That gives more yarn, which means less ends to weave in (Yay!). Other 100% cotton yarns I have used include Crafter’s Secret (Hobby Lobby); Big Twist (Joann); I Love This Cotton (Hobby Lobby) and Loops and Threads (Michael’s).    

The pot scrubbers are very simple. I use the same cotton yarn that was used for the dishcloths. Additionally, I use a coordinating textured yarn. Both yarns are held together when making the pot scrubber. For instance, with a solid red cotton yarn I join a red, white and blue scrubby yarn. Another combination I made was a green, magenta, blue and orange scrubby yarn with an orange and white variegated cotton yarn.

Pot Scrubber Yarn Options

For the scrubby yarn there are a few different popular brands, just like the cotton yarn. I have used Red Heart Scrubby (Joann) as well as Yarn Bee Scrub-Ology (Hobby Lobby). I like both of those yarns. Each of the brands, Red Heart and Yarn Bee, have some unique color combinations. Therefore, I choose which scrubby yarn to purchase based on the colors I am looking for. Some other brands of scrubby yarn include Loops and Threads Squeaky Clean (Michael’s) and Herrschners Suds and Scrub (online).

As I previously mentioned, there are various patterns for dishcloths with different sizes and designs. Likewise, with the pot scrubbers, there are several patterns. I have tried several sizes and designs. I came up with works best for me for both the dishcloth and the pot scrubber. I found many dishcloth patterns to be too large or were unnecessarily decorative for daily use. I came up with a pattern for both the dishcloths and the pot scrubbers that work well for me.

See the patterns below. If you are interested in purchasing any of the ones I have on hand, feel free to visit my Tedooo shop at https://www.tedooo.com/shop/66898146f13236872f656fd2.

Yield: 1 Dishcloth

Simple-to-Make Hand Knit Dishcloth

Print

Make a 100% cotton dishcloth. It is a very useful and versatile item. A dishcloth makes a nice house warming gift (in the recipient's favorite color or the color of their plates or decor). It is also good for your own use. A beginner pattern, this is easy to do and easy to remember. If desired, you can make a coordinating pot scrubber to go along with it. You can find that pattern on the same post.

Active Time 1 hour

Total Time 1 hour

Materials

• 100% worsted cotton yarn, such as Lily Sugar ‘n Cream or Bernat Handicrafter Cotton

Tools

• US 7 knitting needles
• stitch counter
• scissors
• tapestry needle, for weaving in ends

Instructions

1. CO 36 stitches
2. Rows 1-5, K
3. Row 6 and all even rows to 42: K 4, P to last 4, K 4
4. Row 7 and all odd rows to 41: K across
5. Row 43-48: K across
6. BO all stitches in Knit
7. Weave in ends

Notes

CO: cast on

K: knit

P: purl

BO: bind off

Many worsted 100% cotton yarns will work to make this item. Stick with cotton, for the durability and the best material for this finished item. As far as needles, straight, double pointed or circular will work. I like to use 2 double pointed needles, with stoppers at the ends so that the yarn does not slip off the end. 71 yards of yarn (A 42.5 gram skein of Bernat handicrafter cotton yarn) can make one and a half dishcloths. If you would like to make a coordinating pot scrubber, only make 1 dishcloth from the skein. Then, use the remaining yarn, held together with a coordinating scrubber yarn to knit up the pot scrubber. Most cotton yarns will suffice for this pattern. If desired, you can be more eco-friendly and use organic cotton, recycled cotton or a cotton blend.

Finished dimensions of the dishcloth are roughly 8 inches by 8 inches. If a different-sized finished product is desired, increase or decrease the amount of cast on stitches. Also, to keep it square, continue in pattern until height is one less inch than width. (For example, if the width is 9 inches, continue in the pattern until the height is 8 inches.). Then, finish as the pattern is written. For instance, finish with the 5 row knit border before binding off in knit.

Yield: 1 pot scrubber

Easy to Knit Pot Scrubber

Print

Hand knit a pot scrubber to help clean pots, pans, baking sheets and more. Useful when a cleaning an item that needs more than a dishcloth but not quite steel wool. 100% cotton, this cleans with a scratch-free finish. If you are making a set with a dishcloth, use the cotton yarn used to make the dishcloth. In addition, use a coordinating scrubber yarn, held together, to create this item.

Active Time 30 minutes

Total Time 30 minutes

Materials

• 100% cotton yarn, in worsted weight
• 100% cotton scrubber yarn, (such as Red Heart’s Scrubby or Yarn Bee’s Scrub-ology) in a color that coordinates with the worsted weight cotton yarn, if making a set

Tools

• US 7 needles, either straight needles, circular or double points with stoppers on the ends
• scissors
• stitch counter
• tapestry needle for weaving in the ends

Instructions

1. With cotton yarn and cotton srubber yarn held double, CO 15 stitches.
2. Rows 1-30: Knit every row
3. BO in knit

Notes

If a smaller pot scrubber is desired, cast on 10 stitches and knit to row 20. Together with the dishcloth, this makes for a nice housewarming gift. Another idea is to gift this to a student going off to college or venturing away from their parents' house for the first time.

Cozy slippers are great for any season. Wearing them around the house keeps the chill off the feet. I wanted to create something to keep my family’s feet comfortable when walking inside our home. Hand-knit slippers look cozy and fairly simple to make. I like to look through knitting ideas and patterns on Ravelry and Pinterest.

A Popular Slipper Pattern

A granny-type slipper is very popular on Ravelry and Pinterest. Going through Ravelry, I stopped counting after I passed over 20 individual patterns for a similar slipper. I wanted to try out some of the patterns. All of the patterns for this slipper that I found are for 2 straight needles. It is knit flat in one piece. Then the toe and front area of the foot is pulled together and seamed. Finally, the heel is stitched together. Each of the patterns are very similar, but differ slightly. One difference is the needle size used. Another way is how many stitches are cast on. Also, where to stop the garter section and begin the ribbing differs in some patterns. After reading through many of the specific patterns, I decided to try two different ones.

Make-up of the Slippers

In these patterns, the body of the slipper is in garter stitch, while the toe is ribbed. The garter body gives this slipper a snug fit around the foot. The ribbed foot section allows for some stretch to fit many foot widths. This type of knit slipper is easily tucked into a pocketbook or backpack to take along! Some examples of places include the nursery at church; visiting friends or family; or anywhere you feel comfortable wearing them. 

Choose a Pattern

One of the patterns I chose to make was, “Family Slippers,” by Churchmouse Yarns & Teas. The other pattern was, “Aunt Maggie’s slippers,” by Bev Qualheim. Of the 2 of those, I prefer “Aunt Maggie’s.” I can remember that pattern easier. The “Churchmouse” pattern had better additional information. The only reason I prefer “Aunt Maggie’s” is because “Churchmouse’s” uses markers. I sometimes use stitch markers. However, for some reason in this pattern, I kept losing my count when I slipped the markers. Subsequent times of making this pattern, I omitted the markers and had no issues.

Aunt Maggie’s pattern has instructions to knit for children, women and men sized slippers. Likewise, Churchmouse’s pattern offers instructions for sizes small, medium and large women’s slipper. The children and small sizes are very similar. Similarly, medium and women sizes are alike. Also, the men and large sizes are similar. Both of the finished projects created a comfortable piece of footwear. The “Churchmouse” pattern made a 3 ¼ inch high side to the slipper. However, the “Aunt Maggie’s” was slightly shorter at 2 7/8 inches high.

Both pattern instructions call for two strands of worsted weight yarn, held double. This equates to a bulky weight yarn, which is also an option of yarn to use. The writer of “Aunt Maggie’s,” Bev Qualheim, mentions to use a single strand of worsted weight yarn for a lighter slipper. However, like her, I prefer 2 strands of worsted, held double, for extra warmth. Worsted weight yarn held double also creates a thicker, more durable, finished product.

Select Yarn

I chose to use 100% acrylic yarn. This fiber is easily laundered. Wool yarn gives a warmer product. Superwash merino wool is washable and warm. However, my final decision came down to the acrylic. That fiber is washable, available in my area, and more cost-effective. Also, acrylic comes in very many color options and finishes.

Decide on Materials to Knit Slippers

To begin, I chose a printed yarn and a solid color that coordinates with it. There are many brands of acrylic yarn locally for me to choose from. A few include Red heart, I Love this Yarn, Yarn Bee, Caron, Big Twist, Loops & Threads, Crafter’s Secret, Lion Brand and Bernat.

Follow the Pattern

The beginning of the pattern is very simple. Just cast on the amount of stitches necessary for the size of the foot. Most of this section of the pattern is made with knit stitches on the front and back, creating the garter stitch. Two purl stitches are used on every wrong side of the slipper to create the bottom edges of the slipper. The next section of this pattern is to knit a ribbed pattern for the toe area. The ribbing creates a more stretchy material for various foot widths.

Be Safe Wearing Slippers

Though they can be worn on any type of flooring, I strongly recommend keeping safety in mind. One way to be safe is to only wear these slippers on carpet. They tend to be very slippery on hard floors.  Another option for safety is to add a non-skid finish. The person wearing the slipper could very easily fall while wearing these. The carpet-type floors provide some traction.

Options to Add

I have seen many options to make slippers anti-skid. One of the options I saw was to attach a non-skid pad or patch to the underside of the slipper, under the ball of the foot. Another option is anti-skid gripper fabric. This is usually found in craft stores. Something else for anti-skid is fabric paint. There is a product called “Sock Stop” that is a fabric paint made specifically for this issue. Some have suggested plasti-dip. Alternatively, puffy paint can be used on the underside of the slipper. Similarly, hot glue added in designs or shapes on the underside of the slipper creates an anti-slip surface. One more option to use is non-skid shelf liner, cut to fit the slipper. There are more options and ideas that creative people have come up with. Share any ideas you have.

I have a cat and a dog that I like to spoil and interact with. So, I wanted to make some toys or items for them. Cat toys worked for my cat. I have not found something to knit for my dog yet. She is part Alaskan malamute and any type of sweater would make her too warm. Not only is the size of her body large, but her claws and teeth, too. Many toys do not last long with her before being ripped. Stuffing goes flying, too. To make her a knit toy would be a waste of time and yarn. Also, I would have a mess to clean up. I am still trying to decide what to make for her. For her, I should stick with chew toys.

Cat Toys To Hunt

My cat, on the other hand, is not quite as destructive with toys. I have made him a few toys. Besides playing with my yarn while I am knitting with it, he likes small toys to bat around. I have noticed that he tends to like my kids’ stuffies. He gravitates to the small ones, which are about the size of a baby bunny or very young kitten. I take the small stuffies back into my kids’ rooms throughout the day. A few hours later they are in different spots around the house. The chair in the living room, or the kitchen floor are popular places he chooses to leave his catch. Though, I rarely catch the culprit in action.

I found a few different patterns online for cat toys. However, really almost anything smallish that he can bat around would suffice. Polyfil stuffing and dried catnip stuffed inside make the toys even more enticing.

Ensure Cat Toys are Safe

For pet toys, is it imperative to keep in mind the pets’ safety. Small items, such as button eyes or jingle bells on the outside of the toy, pose a choking hazard. The pet could chew a small part off and swallow it unintentionally. Keep that in mind when selecting what to make, what details to use and the embellishments desired. Buttons for eyes can look cute and finish the project. However, a small puppy with sharp teeth will chew them off. Likewise, a metal bell gives similar concerns. An added element of the possibility of danger is crumpled or distorted metal cutting the inside of the pets’ mouth. Of course, there are danger possibilities with everything. Pet owners should always monitor use and inspect for the safety of any toy.

A Scare with Copper

I had a scary few days with our cat, Copper, when he swallowed something he was playing with. For a few days he kept getting sick, or trying to get sick and instead just making a horrible screaming sound. If anything came up it was pieces of a red fabric ribbon that my son was playing with a few days prior. We ended up taking him to the emergency vet. They treated him for severe dehydration and gave him meds to keep him from vomiting. The X-ray showed a wad of something in his body. We guessed it was the ribbon. After we were home we gave him meds every eight hours. Also, we had to try to force feed him baby food through a syringe.

Copper’s Outcome

Copper became very lethargic and would not eat or drink. We were so concerned for his life. The doctor told us to monitor his output for any trace of the ribbon, if there was any output. If the ribbon did not come out within a day or two, the vet suggested a return visit and possible surgery to remove it. That had a price tag in excess of $6,000! The next day or two was filled with much prayer, little sleep, lots of tears and uncertainty. Every time he would turn his head away from eating or drinking I felt discouraged. Soon, though, he did start eating, and then he ate on his own. A few days after that he started to get his strength back. Then, another few days later, the ribbon came out, thankfully. Shortly after that he was back to his normal, playful self. I certainly don’t want to go through that experience again, nor do I wish that on any pet lover. Now we try to be more cautious with what is lying around and what we see him playing with.

Creating the Bunny Toy

After ensuring as much safety as possible, it is time to gather the materials for the project. Certainly, the pattern is necessary. Also, obtain the yarn and required needles that are suggested in the pattern. Stuffing material is also needed for a cat toy. Such material includes polyfil, yarn scraps or other soft and squishy item. Dried catnip and/or silvervine can be added inside the polyfil to make a toy more enticing.

Copper has a mint green bunny filled with polyfil and some catnip that I made for him. He likes to lounge with it. I don’t really see him play with this cat toy. Instead, he licks it as he licks his own fur. Over time it has pulled at the yarn in a way that makes it look so fuzzy, I hope the felines in your life enjoy this as much as my cat does.

My niece decided on the honeycomb blanket for her baby. She was living in Germany, as her husband was stationed there.  As they were visiting in the U.S., she called me to tell me that I had someone to make a baby blanket for.  She was going to have a baby!  Of course, at the time when she told me she was going to have a baby she did not know the gender.

Choosing the Pattern

After giving it some thought and searching many baby blanket patterns, I asked her what kind of design she would like, what colors and if she had a theme picked out for the nursery.  She wanted a gender-neutral look with a theme of Classic Winnie-the-Pooh, with muted colors.  Now that I had an idea of what I was looking for, I found some patterns that I thought were appropriate with her theme and sent them her way via messenger. Patterns I sent her included a feather and fan design; a honeycomb; Winnie the Pooh; a shell-looking pattern and an elongated honeycomb pattern.  She decided on the regular honeycomb pattern, which was written for two colors. 

Choosing the Colors

I had a small tag with Classic Winnie-the-Pooh picture on it. With the tag, I went to check out some yarn options.  I sent my niece pictures of several yarn colors. In addition to the colors I included the tag in front of it for comparison.  She liked 5 of the colors, all in Bernat Softee Baby.  The colors were Lemon, Antique white, Soft peach, Jacquards Tree Fort and Jacquards River Ripples. I decided to use the Lemon color as the main color, for the honeycomb pattern, as that was similar to the color of Winnie-the-Pooh.  The other colors I used in a pattern as follows: Tree Fort, Antique White, River Ripples and Soft peach, two sections of each, with a 15-row moss stitch border in the Lemon color.

Finishing the Honeycomb blanket

When I was finished with the main body of the blanket, I picked up and knit a 2” moss stitch border on each side.  This was the first time I had attempted this type of pattern and enjoyed the variety.  My least favorite part of knitting anything is weaving in the ends.  With all of the color changes (every 16 rows) there were plenty of ends to weave in. 

The finished blanket, woven ends and all, was very lovely.  I will make the Honeycomb blanket again, but with just two colors, as the pattern is written. Those would be the main color and the contrasting – two colors that stand out but look good together. This could be a solid for the main color and a variegated for the contrasting color or other variety.  I will only make this for a very special baby (like my niece’s sweet baby girl). 

Though this pattern looks a little difficult, it is just a series of knits, purls and slipped stitches.  Knit the main color loosely or the slipped stitches will pull too much. That will cause some puckering or tension issues, so pay attention to the tension throughout. 

Finding a Pattern

There are many different patterns for market bags. As I was searching for one to make, I tried a few and they just were not what I wanted. I was looking for something with a sturdy base. I also wanted a lot of give in the sides of the bag.  After making a few bags using patterns I found, I was still not completely satisfied.  

So, I gathered parts of different patterns together. Some of the patterns were from bags I had knit. Other patterns I had not attempted. Then I came up with a bag that more suits my liking. The design I came up with works well. I might tweak it here and there. For example, add some solid sections throughout. Also, the length of the straps are long to me. I prefer a shorter strap. Another option I can alter is the length and height of the bag itself. I would do that by adding or omitting some repeats.

Market bag construction

The pattern allows for a garter, stockinette or moss stitch base. A large square is knit to make up the base. The sides are made by picking up stitches around the base.  Then it is built up for a set amount of repeats. A mesh pattern is continued to increase the height of the project. Alternately, there could be some solid sections knit in this part if desired. To finish the sack part of the bag, end with a solid or moss stitch rim, about two inches high.  I like to do the same pattern as the base. Finish the project with one strap or two. 

Market bag yarn

To make this bag, I used 100% cotton yarn. That material makes it washable and sturdy. I like to use either one or two colors.  For the base, a solid color is preferred. The body of the bag is made either in a solid or variegated that coordinates with the base. Some of the bags I made have a solid base, variegated body and the base color used for the rim.  Sometimes I made the base and straps in the same color. Then the body, including the rim, a variegated color. If desired, make a loop on one side of the rim. After that, attached an appropriate-sized button on the opposite side of the bag. I don’t know if this is really necessary, as the bag is mostly mesh and small items will fall out even with the button closure.

Have fun trying out this pattern and share a picture of what yours looks like!              

Yield: 1 Market Bag

Kalmia Knits Market Bag

Print

This is a pattern for a mesh market bag. Use different colored yarn, solids, multi, variegated or whatever else you like. Use 100% cotton yarn. It is important to use the needle sizes suggested to get the right sizing. Blocking is not necessary unless desired.

Materials

• 200 g cotton yarn (solid, multi, a mix of both)
• US 8 circular needles and DPNs
• US 10 1/2 or 10 3/4 circular needles
• Row counter (optional)
• tapestry needle (for weaving in the ends)
• scissors

Instructions

Base:

1. With solid color yarn, CO 31 stitches onto US8 needle.
2. Garter stitch or Moss stitch for 52 rows. **See notes on Garter stitch for the base, as if on straight needles.

Body of bag:

1. Switch to larger needle.
2. Pick up and knit 96 stitches around the base (24 stitches on each side).
3. If desired, switch to multi colored yarn, then begin pattern.

Pattern:

Row 1. (K2tog, YO) repeat to end

Row 2. K every stitch

Row 3. (YO, K2tog) repeat to end

Row 4. K every stitch

Repeat rows 1-4 15 times.

Top edge:

Switch to US 8 needles

Garter stitch for 13 rows, ending with a Purl row. **See notes on Garter stitch for this edge, knitting in the round.

Strap Options:

One Strap:

1. PM, Knit 33 sts, PM, Knit 15 sts, PM, Knit 33 sts, Knit 15
2. BO to first marker.
3. Using US 8 DPN, Knit 15 sts, to second marker. (leave those stitches on the DPN).
4. BO to the next marker.
5. Knit 15 sts (as if on straight needles) for 100 rows, or until desired length.
6. Join to opposite side (where the 15 sts are waiting on the DPN) by BO in 3-needle bind off. Be sure to turn right sides in so they are facing each other.
7. Weave in ends.

Two straps:

1. PM, Knit 17 sts, PM, Knit 7 sts, PM, Knit 17 sts, PM, Knit 7 sts, PM, Knit 17 sts, PM, Knit 7 sts, PM, Knit 17 sts, PM, Knit 7 sts.
2. Repeat as for one strap.

Notes

Garter stitch (the base of the bag)-knit every row, Knit back and forth as if on straight needles

Moss stitch: 1st row-K1, P1 across 2nd row- P1, K1 across (knit the purls and purl the knits).

K2tog: Knit the next 2 stitches together.

YO: Yarn over, put the yarn in front as if to purl, but knit. This creates an extra stitch and the hole for the mesh stitch in this section.

Garter stitch (on top edge)- (Row 1 – K; Row 2- P) .

PM: Place marker

Sts: Stitches

BO: bind off

A Thought to Create

I had made knitted kiwi bird stuffies for my two older kiddos before my youngest was born and wanted to make something for all of them. My (then) two-year old son has some speech issues, so when he shows or expresses interest in something that he verbalizes, I pay attention.  I was noticing that anytime he saw the Sesame Street show or something related, he became very into it.  When the Yip yip characters came on he couldn’t help but giggle.  They were silly to him with their ‘yip’ sounds, wavy moves, googly eyes, crooked antennae and large, gaping mouths. These silly alien monsters have been around for a very long time-even before I was a child watching Sesame Street!

Pattern Found

I decided to research Ravelry and Pinterest for a pattern. To my pleasant surprise, I found a pattern on Ravelry. The pattern is available in both knit and crochet, by Carissa Browning. I made this with blanket yarn, for a hanging bag.  After looking over the supplies needed list, I headed to JoAnns for blanket yarn.  It just so happened that some bright colored blanket yarn was on sale!  I picked out a few large skeins and headed to the fabric section for the liner inside. 

Mistakes Made

Knowing my middle son’s favorite color was orange, that was the color I used first. I followed the pattern and had a little difficulty deciphering the part of the head/nose that comes together.  With the orange, and with the next color, aqua, I misinterpreted that top section and it came out wonky.  My son decided that he liked the color green better, so when I made the next Yip yip (in green) I did it the right way.  My other two sons chose blue and red for their Yip yips.  As I made them I did not let my boys see them, hoping they would forget about them and be surprised when I gave them the finished projects. 

I made the finishing touches of the knitting portion, making a loop in the back so it could be hung somewhere and adding the fringe along the base.  Then I continued on to the other parts of the Yip yips; sewing in the liner, making the ping pong ball eyeballs and attaching the pipe cleaner antennae.  My wonderful husband pierced holes into the ping pong balls and fed the antennae through, so they were ready for me to attach them onto the knitted piece.

They were finished right around Thanksgiving. I decided to present the projects to their owners at the beginning of December.  They were filled with one piece of candy for each day of the month until Christmas. This was an advent candy holder.  My kiddos were so pleased with the finished products and were very excited to accept them.  Now my 2 older kids keep their Yip yips hanging in their room. My youngest fills his with small stuffies.        

About the pattern

The Reyna Shawl is popular in knitting groups I belong to.  That is because the pattern is fairly simple. For example, it alternates between simple garter sections and mesh sections.  Some skills are learned or practiced besides knits and purls. These knitting skills include KTBL; K2tog; ssk; and YO. You will learn that KTBL means to knit through the back loop of the stitch. While K2tog means to knit the next 2 stitches together. Then Ssk means to slip the next 2 stitches onto the right hand needle, one at a time, then knit them together. Finally, YO means to bring the yarn to the front of the work and knit1. A YO, or yarn over, forms an extra stitch and a hole.  Conveniently, all of these abbreviations are explained in the pattern. 

The pattern is written for fingering weight yarn. However, it can be adjusted for other yarn weights.  To get the correct drape use the right size needle for the yarn you choose. The suggested needle size is found on the back of the ball band. Note that if you are using a thicker yarn and larger needle, the finished shawl will be larger than what the pattern is written for. For example, a size 4, or worsted weight yarn with a size US7 or US8 needle will produce a larger shawl.

I increased the size of two Reyna shawls by altering the pattern a little bit. Originally I made this shawl as the pattern is written. When I was finished I decided I wanted a larger completed shawl. With a little bit of math and figuring, it is fairly simple to continue with an additional section in the pattern.